Nikon F6, Nikkor AF-D 35-105mm/3.5-4.5, Kodak Porta 400
Happy Easter, and good egg hunting!
I am a bit of an accessory fiend.
I love to find accessories for my cameras as much as collecting the cameras themselves. One of the most important accessories is your camera strap and so here are a few of my favorites.
For practical use with serious (read: big) cameras I am big fan of OP/TECH’s line of straps. I use both their Pro Loop Strap and Super Classic Strap (with Pro Loop connectors) with my modern Nikon SLRs.
These straps have great grip and comfort, and with their interchangeable system I can swap straps from camera to camera with ease. If I don’t want to use a strap I remove its quick release and snap the two loop connectors together which can then be used as a short handle.
For vintage, leather style I own several of Gordy’s Camera Straps. I use the non-adjustable strap (without pad) with my light Yashica rangefinder, and the tripod-mount wrist strap with my even lighter, plastic-fantastic Lomography Sprocket Rocket.
The leather was a bit hard initially, but after a few months of use it softened up considerably. I am happy without a pad using these with light cameras, but for heavier cameras a pad might be needed to better distribute the weight.
My most recent strap addition was a Lance Camera Strap and it has quickly become a fixture attached to my Nikon FA. It is made out of a woven polyester cord which can fold up into a ball or square into any nook or cranny in a case.
With a 48″ non-adjustable strap I can wear the camera across my neck/shoulder and shoot the camera without taking it off my body. It is so flexible and smooth that I can bring it up to my eye and then slip it back down to my side.
These are my favorite straps for now… I am always looking out for more accessories!
Yashica Electro 35 CC, Ilford HP5 Plus
No, not that kind of big lens…
I am catching up on some B&W processing from this past year. I held on to a number of rolls going back to the past summer thinking I was going to try to develop them on my own.
I never got around to trying that so I finally sent them off to Photoworks SF and then scanning & processing them myself.
This is from the Pigeon Point Light Station state park between San Francisco and Santa Cruz, California. I couldn’t resist the symmetry of this lens (which is actually on display at ground level in a side-building) and shot it straight on.
I have been using a new camera lately, one which is the original sunny sixteen offering from a Nikon SLR perspective.
This is the original Nikon F… as in before they had to bother putting numbers after the “F”.
It has the basic pentaprism without any metering. It seems to operate very well despite some minor dings and scratches here and there.
Releasing its shutter produces the most satisfying “thunk” sound of any of my Nikons, this is one serious piece of metal.
Even though I shoot a great deal with my F6 (which is likely the last F ever, I guess I have bookends now…) this is a new opportunity for me. All the F’s before the F6 have interchangeable finders, and I am looking forward to finding a waist-level finder to play around with…
Dave from Shoot Tokyo
has been working on his medium-format
film scanning technique. I commented
on how I manage scanner and film profiling in VueScan
and he asked for more info.
Someday I may write a general introduction to VueScan, but
for today I am assuming that you have the basics down. I highly recommend the VueScan
Bible as a starting point.
For slide film (positive) profiling you:
This results in slide scans to be very true
to the original as viewed on a light box.
Of course, if the color cast in the slide is off you will need to correct it later (Lightroom, Photoshop, etc.).
For color print film (negative) profiling you:
This results in negative scans to be very neutral and consistent in color. Again, if the color cast was off in the shot to begin with it will still need some correction.
I used my Nikon F6, a macro lens, and a slide copying adapter to shoot a Fuji Provia 100F slide target. You can probably make use of any camera-lens with decent close focus ability to shoot a printed color target.
Using a neutral target like Provia for profiling Kodak Portra 400 shots produces very natural results.
I tried a Velvia target for fun (which has very saturated colors) and the resulting profile was wonky and
“not Portra like”.
This process is a bit of a hassle to setup, but once you have the profiles in place you can save a lot of time by reducing your “normalizing” color correction work.
Nikon D300, AF-S Nikkor 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6
This is another shot from my 2010 visit to Oslo. The statue is of Fridtjof Nansen standing in front of his creation, the icebreaker Fram or “Forward”.
A who’s who list of explorers used this ship in the last 19th and early 20th centuries including Nansen and later Otto Sverdrup exploring the arctic and finally Roald Amundsen exploring the south pole.
It was restored in 1935 and continues to stand to this day in the Fram Museum in Oslo.
Nikon D300, AF-S Nikkor 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6
I am finally getting around to bringing the photos I took while on a business trip to Europe in the Fall of 2010 into Lightroom and Flickr.
I spent a week or so in Oslo and a few days in London. I had borrowed my Dear Sweet Wife‘s D300 for the trip and had a Saturday in Oslo as well as a day off in London to do some photography.
The weather was on the grey side while I was in Oslo, they were getting some of their first serious snow of the year. Even though the light and colors were a bit drab I like the mood I was able to achieve with the above shot.